Gold and beetle wing embroidery. Eventually, more and more commerce grew around exported beetle-wing embroidered textiles. Off-white cotton sheer ground with embroidered design of a stylized floral spray. This dress is made from a lightweight but firm cotton fabric and is beautifully embellished with silk embroidery and beetle wings. Favorite Add to 5 g. Real Iridescent Green Blue Jewel Elytra Beetle Wings Sequin 6 mm. Beetle Wing Embroidery Collection by Gwenyver Costumeholic. Lady Impey in a chemise dress looks … hot and miserable. Let’s examine Western fashion’s relationship with beetle wings and see what would, or could, have been worn in the real 18th century England. I mean, the skirt’s embroidery is well documented, but how does that bodice-type thing even work? The wings are made of chitin built up in thin layers. Clockwise from top left: Unfinished bag, nineteenth century, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria and Albert Museum; Bag, ca. She travels around the world for costume events, academic conferences, and vintage hunting. These dresses are made on Indian muslin with traditional embroidery. Add to cart The iridescent wings of the Jewel beetle have been used for hundreds of years to adorn the muslin gowns and costumes of fine ladies. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. Sep 29, 2018 - Explore Deb Goodwin's board "Beetle wing embroidery" on Pinterest. This causes a phenomenon called interference, in which light rays superpose each other in the minute spacings between the chitin layers, giving the wings a brilliant spectrum of color that changes depending on the viewer’s angle. Tea cosy, ca. Visual content is copyrighted to its respective owners, and inclusion here is under fair use for criticism, comment, and news reporting purposes. Bodice (detail sleeve) of a Beetle Wing dress 1865-1875. 1926, decorated with gold embroidery and beetle wings. The dress is made of a luscious emerald-colored fabric, with the stomacher and neckline embellished with gold embroidery and elytra. In all seriousness, what the fuck kind of a dress is this? After months of sea travel, letters, textiles, and other goods were subject to mold, shipwrecks, theft, destruction, and any number of other disasters. The lining has some age spots along the bottom edge. From shop Littlewingsmagic. The cream colored beads between the beetle wings are Mill Hill from my local embroidery shop. I work as Volunteer textielconservation at museum TwentseWelle and this dress is one of my favorites. Below are ball gowns created at the height of Western fashion, but feature beetle-wing embroidery as embellishment. This 19th century mat is decorated with beetle wings, gold braid and gold thread. This has some age speckling to the fabric & a slight blue-ish tint here & there. Use of eltra in Indian textiles began to explode during the Mughal era (1526 - 1756). Place of Origin. Loosen your grip on your pearls; no beetles are harmed in beetle-wing embroidery. Harvesting beetle wings is as easy as sweeping the forest ground — beetles swarm when they mate, then they die, and their bodies decompose quickly. Johan Zoffany, “The Impey Family Listening to Strolling Musicians,” ca. They decorate not only bodice part, highlighting the small collar, but also appear on the bar at the long sleeves and cuffs. Shipping calculated at checkout. your own Pins on Pinterest The style of metal thread embroidery indicates that it was done in Britain; it does not surround each wing case as it would have done if executed in India. She’s clearly worldly and cosmopolitan, since she casually wears exotic beetle wings. Beetle curator Max Barclay shares specimens from his collection and talks about why jewel beetles were so popular for decorating dress, their vivid colour and how they were collected. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! See photos and get The Cut's perspective on the On Aura Tout Vu Couture collection, Beetle Wing Embroidered Gown, ca. In traditional Indian embroidery techniques, beetle wings appear to be universally embroidered along with rich metals, and are considered a feature of metalwork embroidery; in surviving examples of Indian beetle-wing embroidery, they are without fail accompanied by goldwork — beetle wings by themselves aren’t really a thing. It is wonderful! Frock Flicks note: This is a guest post by our friend J. Leia Lima Baum, @jleialimabaum. Please practice hand-washing and social distancing, and check out our resources for adapting to these times. I fell in with the piece, and that love led me to the contemporary work of fiber artist Michael Cook. It is still sturdy & useable though & the embroidered parts could also be re-used in other projects. Jan 28, 2015 - Explore Creatively Yours's board "Embroidery; Beetle Wing", followed by 556 people on Pinterest. 1827-1831 when she lived in India. The National Trust here in the UK has a fabulous beetle wing Lady Macbeth costume worn by the actress Ellen Terry in 1888. Search the shop Search. Beetles have two sets of wings: a pair of soft, delicate, and disgusting wings that are responsible for flight, and a hard, outer, pretty set to protect them. I bought a bunch of elytra for a project, and they arrived smelling very strongly of mothballs, so I have been vaguely wondering if the insects were “ranched” and then killed using mothballs, so knowing they can be swept up from the ground is interesting. These beetle wing encrusted fabrics were created by local artisans on a small scale, but due to the growing trend in Europe, specifically England, of collecting "exotic goods" from the far corners of their Empire, larger industry centers were needed. Embroidery is so glistening and those metallic shades and spangles are made of real beetle wings! Now, onto the details! Beetles, clearly, are nothing new. The elytra of the jewel beetle to be precise. By The Frock Flicks Team on September 9, 2019 in Eighteenth Century. Beetle Wings for Embroidery. Eventually the DIY craze hit, and actual beetle wings themselves were imported into England, and women took to embroidering their own pieces. Full image of Liv Tyler in the gown, posted by costume designer Richard Cooke on Instagram. For at least several centuries, this type of work has been carried out in various Asian countries, notably China, India, Japan, Myanmar and Thailand. And even when imported textiles and goods did make their way to England from India, there has to be a certain adoption by many people in order to make something fashionable. To prepare the beetle wings--they're easier to cut when softened--I counted out how many I needed and put them in a mini strainer over a bowl of water and poured boiling water over them. Probably made from an Edwardian skirt panel. Beetle Wing Embroidery | Nomadic Decorator The tartan and the beetle-wing embroidery offer a wonderful cross-cultural dialogue in textile. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Tamamushi Shrine, Horyu-ji, Nara prefecture, Japan. Beetlewing is known to have been sewn onto muslin, satin, net and organza. That face you make when you realize you’ve just been found out. Well, anything’s possible, much like how the same woman could discover that by carving metal into long strips of “teeth” she could easily zip her way into and out of her clothing. They used wings and thoraxes (known as beetle elytra) to decorate camel trappings, clothing, door hangings and belts. These beetles are used due to their iridescent colors. Thanks! Very interesting and entertaining as well as learning about beetle wing embroidery. Fashionable dialogue was frustratingly slow between England and her Indian colony. The brilliance of beetle wings do not fade over time, perhaps adding to the mystical connotation of these insects. In reality, the first Anglo-Indian beetle-wing dresses, presuming there were others lost to time, were probably more like Jane Fortnum’s goldwork dress — a striking embellishment on the fabric from which the dress was made, not an application onto an existing dress. It may sound strange to sew bugs’ wings to fabric, but the wing covers’ iridescent beauty and jewel-like qualities have inspired seamstresses of many cultures and time periods to use them to adorn garments and accessories. Supposedly this object was created by male embroiderers in India for export. Otherwise, you’re just the solo kook who likes gross bugs. See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. 2500 Drilled/Undrilled Iridescence Green Blue Elytra Sternocera Jewel Beetle Wings Taxidermy Embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion Design Littlewingsmagic. There are two different colors of the beetle wings; the flowers are done in the "coppery red" variety, the leaves in the more typical kind. Ask her about normcore! Tagsactual researchbuggin' outguest postharlotsharlots seriesHistorical Accuracynitpick alertomg embroideryRichard CookeTVwell actually. They were, however, homesick for England, and so they continued to dress in the Western style, although they pragmatically had their clothing made out of lighter Indian cotton that was more suited to the warm climate. Discover (and save!) When English colonists settled in India and saw the glittering Mughal court embroideries featuring the wings of jewel beetles, they were captivated by the use of this most unusual material. Cotton, gilded metal thread and Indian jewel beetles (Sternocera aeqisignata) Dimensions. ooh, really interesting! Customer Login / Register. The children are cheerful and have adopted elements of Indian dress. It was made in India and I found it in a random search of the museum collection at the Embroiderer's Guild in the UK. Shoes, linen with gold and beetle-wing embroidery, 1790s, Bata Shoe Museum. Like, obvs. Chances are infinitesimal that an aristocrat in England would be so ahead of the fashion game that she would know that bug parts could be effectively applied to her stomacher and neckline and bring out the It Girl she always knew was inside. The vines are executed in gold foil strips, the small flowers in gilt sequins, and the leaves in beetle elytra. Dress worn to a ball by Lady Jane Russell ca. Sternocera aequisignata แมลงทับ, a beetle used in Thailand for beetlewing decoration. Beetle-wings for use in embroidery – cut them to shape using sharp scissors (your metal thread scissors are fine for this) and then punch a hole (or two) with a pin to stitch them on. Beetle-wing-case embroidery also became popular with western women who made gowns and accessories out of beetle-wing-case embroidered muslins and nets. Quantity must be 1 or more Quantity. Feb 8, 2015 - From the archives, an Object of the Day post on an example of iridescent design from the collection. 1860-1880, Manchester Art Gallery; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria and Albert Museum. These real beetle wings are the ultimate in luxury adornment for your finest needlework projects! For centuries, the iridescent wings of beetles have been used as adornment, from the ancient Egyptian veneration of the scarab beetle, to the Amazonian tribes that used colorful elytra and feathers to create ceremonial jewelry, to the “singing shawls” of the Pwo Karen tribes of Thailand and Burma (the wings are strung together like tassels and make a delightful tinkling sound with the wearer’s movements). Beetle wing embroidery is a textile embellishment that uses the rigid wing covers of the jewel beetle. But is it possible that a woman in England in the 1770s would wear something like this? Sep 13, 2012 - Beetle wings first appeared in Europe in the 1820s, exported from India by the East India Trading Company. There is a bit of surviving correspondence between two English women in India from 1784, in where one was interested in commissioning “several pieces of the thickest muslin to be worked in some small pattern in the fly’s wing, and gold, a leaf or something of that kind.” Eventually the letter writer did not end up commissioning the beetle-wing embroidered dress, but opted for silk embroidery instead. www.frockflicks.com/harlots-season-three-beetle-wing-embroidery See more ideas about Beetle wings, Gold work, Wings etc. They are kind of like cutting fingernails. 1868-9. Wings of beetles have been used for paintings, figurines, jewelry, and textiles since 650 A.D. Is it possible that in the 1770s there was a woman in India who was taken by the glittering local embroidery customs and wanted to inject that “otherness” into her wardrobe, so she commissioned an embroidered stomacher and neckline trim for her dark green dress? Four layers of flounces, with jagged edges, that look like the shells, are also abundantly decorated with beetle wings. See details of every online item in National Trust Collections and check the Places tab to plan your visits. Did you notice the beetle-wing embroidery on Liv Tyler’s gown in Harlots? We have 36 in stock. Shop - main page > Shisha mirrors, sequins & embellishments > Beetle Wing embroidery. 1783, oil on canvas, Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid. They are alternatives to stones. But there’s a green 1890s Russian Court Gown inspired beetle wing gown. All rights reserved. Elytra are the hard outer wing cases of jewel beetles. Aug 16, 2017 - Explore Gretchen Howard's board "METALLICS, GOLDWORK, BEETLE WINGS ETC", followed by 107 people on Pinterest. The dress is on show at Smallhythe Place (her home) alongside a painting of her by Singer Sergeant showing her in the dress. Learn how your comment data is processed. They are both mostly green, but the ones in the leaf tend more toward purple, while the ones in the flower can flash copper over … DISCLAIMER: Frock Flicks claims no credit for images featured on this site unless noted. Volume 7, Muslins Plain and Embroidered, The Textile Manufactures of India, compiled by John Forbes Watson in 1864. Yay science! Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. Beetle Wing Embroidery of Michael Cook. An 1820s silhouettes with stylized butas in beetle wings. 14" or 36cm across x 10" or 25cm high. Beetle wing embroidery has been popular in rural India across centuries. Looks like a well-distributed embroidery pattern. Category: Miscellaneous. Several reticules in various stages of completion on different grounds. Gradually, Indian taste began to find its way into fashionable dress. If there’s a material that gets costumers All The Points for incorporating a material that is a) unusual, b) visually striking, and c) misunderstood in the annals of fashion history, it’s beetle wings. It’s a beautiful theatrical interpretation, so yes, of course, and the dress fits right in with the show’s aesthetic. The stately and regal Lady Mary Curzon, Baroness Curzon of Kedleston and Vicereine of India from 1898 to 1905, was born as Mary Leite... View the On Aura Tout Vu Spring 2013 Couture show. The 5 piece dress is owned by the "Oudheidkamer Enschede" (Netherlands) and is preserved at the museumdepot of Museum TwentseWelle, Enschede (Netherlands). It was common to be able to purchase pre-embroidered panels and sew fashionable dresses. Article from nomadicdecorator.com. A tea cosy embroidered with beetle wings with a plum silk ground, more aligned with English embroidery traditions and breaking away from the traditional Indian white muslin. So back to Harlots. 100 Drilled/Undrilled Iridescence Green Blue Elytra Sternocera Jewel Beetle Wings Taxidermy Embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion Design Littlewingsmagic. The Joy of Sewing has Returned!! Beetle Wing art is an ancient craft of sewing beetle wings onto fabric as a design. For some real luxury, add these beautiful real beetlewings to your work... Products In This Category: Sort By. Aside from the above shoes, we don’t have any known extant Western garments from the 18th century that feature beetle-wing embroidery — the earliest surviving examples are from the 1820s. Britain. 1863-67. (Photo credit: Stephen Brayne.) Explore Dovima-2010's photos on Flickr. Beetle-wing embroidery for Europeana was originally expensive, becoming cheaper as the quality declined. The robe à la polonaise worn by Jane Fortnum in 1775 is made of Indian muslin with goldwork embroidery in sprig motifs. Probably not. But what about historical accuracy in the real world? 1867-1890, Hampshire County Council. Add to cart. Textile of embroidered plain-woven muslin and beetle wings, possibly made in India, 19th century. I have mailed my last dress commission today. painting, figure, hand, feather, gold. A textile embroidered with beetles' wings, from the V&A South Asian textiles archive. Materials and Techniques. Dovima-2010 has uploaded 37194 photos to Flickr. Dress worn by Mary Jane MacDougall, 1822, National Museums Scotland. 25-jun-2015 - On Wear When Why I champion Indian ethnic wear and share my thoughts on Indian costume design, Bollywood sarees and look at the different types of Indian attire. The wings of the beetle were collected after the beetle had died. Beetlewing embroidery is an applied technique using iridescent beetlewing casings (rather than the actual beetlewings). Stay safe and healthy. They have a beautiful iridescent colour, changing from blue to green depending on which way you look at … Dismiss Visit. Beetle Wing embroidery - Embroidery Shop. Beetle-wings quantity. Or Mary herself? See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. The shimmering emerald colour is not a pigmentation but a result of the microscopic structure of the cases themselves, which naturally reflects green-blue light. lady curzon peacock dress detail. Deviation from metalwork + beetle wings + white muslin ground didn’t really start to come into play for a few more decades. So why would a lady of means in the 18th century consider beetle-wing embroidery a fashionable feature? Well, that had everything to do with the colonization of India. The costume is regal, powerful, striking, and exotic, all fitting for Lady Fitz. An English family hangs out with Indian musicians. Description Description. Tilly Kettle, “Colonel John Fortnum and Family,” 1775, oil on canvas, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. The earliest example I can find is from the Great Exhibition of 1851, in which Miss Mary West exhibited a black lace dress that featured the “novel application of the beautiful beetle-wing … so much used in Indian embroidery, but seldom seen in any executed in England.”. Cotton muslin with beetle-wing and metal thread embroidery. I’d seen the Victorian dresses and Ms Terry’s dress as well as the Sargent portrait. Kerry Taylor Auctions. Indian embroiders clearly initiated the technique. Museum Number IS.468-1992. Would a woman of Fitz’s station be, in fact, wearing a dress embroidered with beetle wings in the show’s fantasy-laden 18th-century world? In addition to working in the fashion industry, Leia also runs a consulting business helping museums with exhibition mounting and costume reproductions. 5 out of 5 stars (191) 191 reviews $ 13.98. Ivory tulle dress, ca. She’s a fashion historian and archivist based out of New York City, where she got her MA in Fashion and Textile Studies at FIT. Crafting Scrap-booking Wedding Dress Embellishment Littlewingsmagic. An antique, Victorian tea cosy, decorated with beautiful metallic embroidery featuring beetle wings. Date. © Copyright 2007-2020 Frock Flicks, Trystan L. Bass, Kendra Van Cleave, & Sarah Lorraine Goodman. In the memoirs of Fanny Parkes, who traveled through India from 1822-1845, she describes Indian footwear: “The slippers for the ladies are of cloth, of the gayest colours, ornamented with embroidery of gold and silver, adorned with seed pearls, and with beetle wings, which are worked into flowers upon the cloth, and cover the long peak that turns up over the toes.” This is a remarkably similar description to these shoes believed to be made in India for the English market. Her sash, too, echoes the way Indian men tied Kashmir shawls around their waist, another Indian accessory appropriated by European women for their own dress. Yes, you read that correctly, beetle wings. Did the artist/journalist run out of steam and didn’t finish the dress? Season 3, Episode 3, of Harlots (2019) features a dress with a bodice embroidered with beetle wings, worn by Liv Tyler as Lady Isabella Fitzwilliam. Regular price $6.95 Sale price $6.95 Sale. If you own the rights to content here and wish it removed, please contact us. also, must’ve been terrible to replace.. but then if you’re in the beetle wing embellishment crowd I suppose you can probably afford it? From shop Littlewingsmagic. the shimmer is incredible so I can see the appeal, but I don’t think I’d want to sew them on myself. Nov 13, 2016 - This Pin was discovered by revathi subhash. Photograph is obviously not contemporary to the ball, but I didn’t need to tell you that. Aug 11, 2019 - Explore costumeholic's board "Beetle Wing Embroidery", followed by 141 people on Pinterest. Three historical costumers who decided the world needed a podcast and blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything right and wrong with them. See more ideas about Beetle wings, Beetle, Wings dress. Finest needlework projects like the shells, are also abundantly decorated with beetle wings Sequin 6.. 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No beetles are used due to their iridescent colors Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid i mean, the skirt s... Johan Zoffany, “ the Impey Family Listening to Strolling Musicians, ” 1775, oil on,... @ jleialimabaum fabric and is beautifully embellished with gold embroidery and beetle wings are executed in gold foil,! The quality declined, wings dress your work... Products in this:... Well, that had everything to do with the colonization of India, 2012 - beetle wings 6. In the 18th century consider beetle-wing embroidery Museum of Fine Arts,.... Three historical costumers who decided the world needed a podcast and blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything and... Working in the 18th century consider beetle-wing embroidery for Europeana was originally expensive, becoming as! Small flowers in gilt sequins, and women took to embroidering their own pieces and wish removed. To embroidering their own pieces site unless noted do with the piece, and leaves... 2007-2020 Frock Flicks Team on September 9, 2019 in Eighteenth century followed by 556 people on.. Blue elytra Sternocera jewel beetle wings + white muslin ground didn ’ t finish the?! Are executed in gold foil strips, the skirt ’ s clearly worldly and cosmopolitan, since she wears! To tell you that finest needlework projects everything to do with the stomacher and neckline embellished with embroidery. Paintings, figurines, Jewelry, and the leaves in beetle elytra ) decorate! By 556 people on Pinterest share posts by email of Fine Arts Houston. Executed in gold foil strips, the skirt ’ s clearly worldly cosmopolitan. Hot and miserable fabric, with the stomacher and neckline embellished with silk embroidery beetle! In rural India across centuries East India Trading Company England, and beetle-wing... Museum of Fine Arts, Houston can not share posts by email is beautifully with. I mean, the textile Manufactures of India real iridescent Green Blue jewel beetle!